Casco Viejo

     Casco Viejo, meaning "Old Quarter" or "Old Town" is the historic district of Panama City. Built in the 1600s, the area is rich in heritage and legend. The ancient buildings are fraught with such architectural detail that you expect Spanish Conquistadors to come sauntering out of the coffee shops.

Casco Viejo

There are stories of pirates and pillaging. One such legend surrounds the Church of San Jose. The upshot of the story is that a monk, to protect the fabulously ornate Golden Altar of the church from the pirates, covered it in a black wash to hide the gold leaf finish. Some versions even go so far as to say that Captain Morgan donated to the monks after seeing their pitiful altar. 

Golden Altar-Church of San Jose

     The area is being restored, but the estimated time to complete the project is as much as ten years, due to the size of the area and the number of structures. We stayed in a restored hotel in Casco Viejo a year ago and enjoyed our visit immensely. The Magnolia Inn http://www.magnoliapanama.com/ was delightful, and its owners are honest, helpful, and hospitable. (Uncompensated plug. They really are wonderful hosts.)
     If you are a dreamer like me, you can almost hear the laughter and music of the colonial times, echoing in the narrow streets. It is easy to envision monks and pirates and ladies with long sweeping skirts and lacy fans. Perhaps that is part of the allure of the country, knowing that there is a dramatic past, full of romance and intrigue. Don't get me wrong, I am thrilled that they no longer behead people down here. (See Vasco Nunez de Balboa on the Wikipedia website.) That's a little too much drama and intrigue, even for me. I am content to embrace these remnants of the rich history of Panama, and rejoice that they are being preserved and restored.