El Valle de Anton, Panama

El Valle de Anton

     Traveling down the Pan-American Highway from Panama City, you can turn onto Highway 71 and meander up the little winding mountain road, while carefully avoiding bicyclists and pedestrians, until you get to a little berg called El Valle de Anton. The drive itself is delightful, offering panoramic vistas of distant mountains, often swathed in clouds, like a hazy whipped cream topping.

     El Valle de Anton, or El Valle as it is more commonly referred to, is a quiet, tranquil little town of about 4500 people set in the crater of a long-expired volcano. We stayed at the Anton Valley Hotel. 

The room was clean, modest, and comfortable and the staff was courteous. Across the street was the Catholic church, and wouldn’t you know, the thing that high school Spanish students have been looking for since the beginning of organized education- LA BIBLIOTECA.

Our first night there, we found a little open-air establishment called the Restaurante Santa Librada. It was almost deserted, with one other table just finishing their meal. We sat down and waited. A skinny dog was right outside the dining area, looking hopeful, although you could tell he knew better than to step onto the tile. The lady who was serving appeared and took our order. The fare was simple-a chicken dish with rice and beans-but it was delicious. As we finished our meal and paid, our sweet server collected our scraps and added them to a larger pile, which she took outside the restaurant and gave to the dog. You gotta love somebody that is kind to animals. We came back the next day for breakfast.

There are lots of things to see and do in the town. Their website http://www.el-valle-panama.com/index.html  provides information and links to everything imaginable. We only had time for one attraction, so we opted to go see the “Square Trees”. 

These trees have trunks that have a squared or boxy shape, rather than a cylindrical appearance like other trees. The tour is located adjacent to the Hotel Campestre, and we parked, found a hotel employee who collected a small admission fee and unlocked the gate. The tour is self-guided, with little hand-painted signs that tell you which way to go, and also provide information about some of the trees and plants. We were the only ones there that morning, so it was like having an enchanted tropical forest all to yourself.  The square trees are interspersed with other varieties, and sunlight filters through the bright green canopy, dappling the path. At one point there was a wall of giant bamboo, and flowering plants abound. I highly recommend long pants and athletic shoes for this tour, as there are slippery spots, and huge exposed tree roots with leaf-cutter ants marching across them.

 We came to a narrow suspension bridge, which crossed a clear babbling brook, with little waterfalls tumbling over smooth mossy stones. Another really good reason to be wearing sensible shoes.

We have to go back soon, because we didn’t get to see the orchids, or the frogs, or the butterflies, or the petroglyphs, or the big waterfall……..El Valle is a gem nestled in a cradle of beauty. 

Wonderful Rain

     And so it begins. After a long dry spell, today, out of nowhere, the much-heralded rainy season begins. It sounds glorious. It smells fabulous. We went

out on the terrace just to bask in it. The rain pours off of the clay-tiled roof in steady fat rivulets about a foot apart. Big happy drops bounce in the puddles like dozens of shiny crystal beads. The birds, for once, are silent, and objects in the distance are hazy and faded. 

     As it lets up a little, small flying insects appear and dart back and forth as if they are playing tag. A couple of the braver birds come out of hiding, bathing themselves with ruffling of feathers as they sing in the shower. A distant low rumble of thunder rolls across the leaden sky. A couple of minutes later, a dazzling flash and simultaneous shattering crack of thunder explode in the heavens, so intense that we both said we could feel the thunder in our chests. Note to self: Do not underestimate lightning and thunder in Panama. 

     I wonder, if after a few months of this, will I long for sunny and bright, the way Texans pine for Spring by late January? Or will I still be enchanted by it like I am now? It is so peaceful and relaxing, and today I love it. It's a surround-sound nature show. It's an excuse to sit and reflect.  

     It has tapered to a sprinkle now, but the king-sized bowling alley in the sky above still booms and rumbles. The grateful earth drinks deeply. 

What's the Food Like?

     I have been asked many times about the Panamanian cuisine. Many people think that if it is south of the Texas border, it is all tacos and enchiladas. Not true. Latin America does not equal Mexico, and each country has its own special dishes. There are some similarities, mainly because of the crops indigenous to this part of the world.  

     The first meal we ever had in this country was seafood. It is readily available, fresh, and inexpensive. They often batter the whole fish and deep fry it, and it is presented sometimes in a way that is a little flamboyant. 

Fried Fish

Okay, a LOT flamboyant. They also offer ceviche, which is a dish made from fish or shrimp that is cured in citrus juices and seasoned. Sancocho is a traditional soup made of meat, often chicken, and vegetables. 

Sancocho

     Empanadas, made by folding dough around stuffing, usually meat or cheese, and frying them, are another Panamanian favorite. Beans and rice are standard fare, and fruit is plentiful. Fried plantains are common, and potatoes are also a regular side dish. I like the thick fried corn tortillas, comparable in flavor to hush puppies. 

Fried meat-filled tortilla dish

   

  There are American-style restaurants, but in my experience, they tend to have more American style pricing. The most fun and enjoyable cuisine for us has been the small Panamanian style eateries. Most of them are "al fresco" dining, or open air establishments. 

     

    These are but a few examples of the variety of Panamanian dishes we have read or heard about. I feel certain that I will write future blogs about the food here, but give me a little time for some thorough, um.... research. YUMMY!!!

Panama Wildlife

     No blog about Panama would be complete without an occasional discussion of the animals native to this country. The wildlife here is ubiquitous and diverse. Let's talk about birds, for example. We no longer need an alarm clock. It gets very bright very early here, but if that isn't enough to stir you from your slumber, maybe the cacophony lovely chorus of a variety of birdsong will get you moving. There must be no less than 357,989 birds who gather for a rowdy vociferous convention every morning, right outside our window. They all talk at the same time, too. No parliamentary procedure here. All kidding aside, I enjoy the birds. It has been a challenge trying to photograph them, but I was able to snap a few today.

 

 

There are so many varieties, and what is around us here in Coronado is only the tip of the iceberg. There are highland areas and forests with hundreds of species. The Audubon Society of Panama states that 976 species of birds have been recorded in this country-an impressive amount for a country approximately the size of South Carolina. This is owing in part to Panama's geographical location, and in part to the variety of habitats found here.

The squirrels also showed up for the photo shoot today. They were pulling  berries off of one of the trees, and scampering about on limbs and wires. Show-offs. 

     When we were down here a year ago, we traveled all over the country,  and saw a variety of animals, ranging from a species of crocodile to chickens in trees. 

Spying out the birds, insects, and other animals here is one of the highlights of wandering around this country. I am certain, however, that as I am peering at them, thinking about how unique and funny they are, that the sentiments are reciprocated. 

Sunset at Punta Chame, Panama

     We decided late this afternoon to drive down to Punta Chame and find a public beach, The beaches in Panama are like snowflakes - no two are the same. So we feel compelled to investigate as many as possible.  Some of the coastal areas are rocky, and the sands vary in color from pitch black to sugar white. There are beaches with little gentle waves, barely lapping at the shore, and beaches where the waves are throwing a tantrum like an angry child. Some are covered in shells, and some, like the one we went to today, have signs warning you about stingrays at low tide. Good advice. 

     We went through the gate and plodded down the sandy path to the beach. There was an impressive amount of driftwood scattered about. A variety of sea birds circled and dove, scavenging for remnants of carrion, which is my genteel way of mentioning that there were a quite a few creatures deposited on the shore that were less than lively. Seashells and broken sand dollars danced in the surf.  The waves were calm, and we walked down the beach a good ways and then back up as the sun dipped slowly behind the mountains. 

     There is something about watching a sunset on the beach that is absolutely mesmerizing and calming, as you listen to the lullaby of the ocean while the day's light fades from bright white to golds and pinks reflected on the water. As I look out over the horizon, I can't help but wonder what secrets and mysteries are forever guarded by that giant we know as the Pacific. Small offerings are regurgitated onto the shore, like the driftwood, dead crabs, and sand dollars, but others will remain forever an enigma, like shipwrecks and lost planes and Amelia Earhart.  

     The great Pacific may be taciturn in nature, but it is also very generous. The gift I received from the sea today was peace and calm, and the joy of watching the beautiful sunset. 

Sunset at Punta Chame, Panama

The Cigar Factory at La Pintada

     When we visited Panama a year ago, my husband was very interested in seeing the cigar factory we had read about online. It is located in a town called La Pintada, and we drove up there one afternoon, thinking that we could find it by asking one of the locals. It was around 3:00 p.m. when we got to the town, so we figured we had enough time to catch a glimpse or two of the factory in operation. We asked a guy on the street, and he gave us directions. As we drove up the little semi-paved road, we were just certain we had done something wrong, because we only saw a little white building-not nearly big enough to be a factory.

Cigar Factory

Factory Store

Lo and behold, we had found it, in spite of our gringo predisposed idea of how a factory should look. We parked, and went inside, where a lady was attending the retail part of the establishment. She informed us that the workers-both of them-had already gone home for the day, but we were welcome to tour the factory. There was an open door to our right, and we proceeded to take the self-guided tour of the factory, which I am going to treat you to now. 

Workers' tables

Yep, That's the tour, folks. Please save your questions until the end. The guys sit at those desk/tables, hand roll cigars all day, and knock off whenever they feel like they have reached their quota. After they roll them, sometimes they box and/or package them.

Now, if that is not quaint, I don't know what is. By the time we toured their workplace that day, they were already on the porch at home with a cold beer. There are two morals to this story. 1.) Not everything is as seem, grasshopper. We really need to break out of our culture-snobbery shells and realize that not everyone does things the "American" way. This little factory functions just fine, and 2.) If you lean back in your chair at 2:45 and say, "Well, I have done my best, honestly earned a few bucks today, I believe I'm gonna pick it up again tomorrow," the world is not going to come to a screeching halt. The economy won't collapse, and nobody is going to die. 

    Frankly, I love the idea that they don't have to work grueling twelve-hour sweat shop hours in this culture. Many of us stayed on the American hamster wheel long enough to have plantar fasciitis and bad backs. Take a lesson from Panama, folks. Go home early and relax. 

La Pintada, Panama

Casco Viejo

     Casco Viejo, meaning "Old Quarter" or "Old Town" is the historic district of Panama City. Built in the 1600s, the area is rich in heritage and legend. The ancient buildings are fraught with such architectural detail that you expect Spanish Conquistadors to come sauntering out of the coffee shops.

Casco Viejo

There are stories of pirates and pillaging. One such legend surrounds the Church of San Jose. The upshot of the story is that a monk, to protect the fabulously ornate Golden Altar of the church from the pirates, covered it in a black wash to hide the gold leaf finish. Some versions even go so far as to say that Captain Morgan donated to the monks after seeing their pitiful altar. 

Golden Altar-Church of San Jose

     The area is being restored, but the estimated time to complete the project is as much as ten years, due to the size of the area and the number of structures. We stayed in a restored hotel in Casco Viejo a year ago and enjoyed our visit immensely. The Magnolia Inn http://www.magnoliapanama.com/ was delightful, and its owners are honest, helpful, and hospitable. (Uncompensated plug. They really are wonderful hosts.)
     If you are a dreamer like me, you can almost hear the laughter and music of the colonial times, echoing in the narrow streets. It is easy to envision monks and pirates and ladies with long sweeping skirts and lacy fans. Perhaps that is part of the allure of the country, knowing that there is a dramatic past, full of romance and intrigue. Don't get me wrong, I am thrilled that they no longer behead people down here. (See Vasco Nunez de Balboa on the Wikipedia website.) That's a little too much drama and intrigue, even for me. I am content to embrace these remnants of the rich history of Panama, and rejoice that they are being preserved and restored.